Monday, March 31, 2008

Tactica: Baiting the opponent

This tactic is simple enough in concept, yet often difficult to execute properly, especially when playing against a skilled opponent who can recognize the tactic and will make efforts to disrupt your plans.

There are many different ways and situations in which you can use this tactic and it will depend on which units you are using and the unit(s) which your opponent is bringing to bear.

There are two parts to effectively using this tactic and it requires 2 of your units - it can contain more units, but at its heart, 2 units are at the heart of it.

You need both a screening unit and the hammer unit.

Ideally the screening unit will be a group of skirmishers --- for me this is almost always going to be pistol armed duellists. While we do have other skirmishing units available (Lumpin Croop's, Mengil's Manflayers etc), the RoR skirmishers are far too expensive to be used as front line shields for the hammer units.

I do use Lumpin Croop's in my army (much to the annoyance of my opponents), and they have never failed to perform. Their role is one of harassing and annoying the enemy, hopefully putting wounds on small weak units (fast cav, and generally anything T3 within their range, and of course as marchblockers).

Why duellists? Why not? They are one of the best units available to a DOW general. There are several different equipment options available. Lets break these down briefly:

Vanilla Duellists - comes with a handweapon - not really good for much of anything - these guys will struggle to kill anything

Duellist w/2 handweapons - 2 WS4, I4 attacks are great, and they can chop up small weak units with relative success, although they lack staying power

Duelist w/Pistol - I realize there is some debate as to whether this version should count as having 2 attacks in close combat - I certainly think they should, and most opponents will see the light of reason. Now we have a duellist with 2 WS4, I4 attacks in close combat, but perhaps most importantly, we have a fairly powerful and often underestimated ranged attack (several of my opponents learned this when my duellists proceeded to tear their units apart in the shooting phase). One key ability the pistol armed duellist possesses over other ranged units (bows etc) is that you can always stand and shoot with a pistol (-1 to hit still applies). Opponents will often reconsider charging for fear of potentially getting whiped out on the charge. Yet for me, close combat is not the primary role for the duellists, unless the situation is just too good to pass up (judgment call).

Duellist w/Brace of Pistols - 2 S4 AP shots, and 2 CC attacks (the 'legal' or 'official' way to get them their 2 CC attacks). Another powerful build, although I haven't used it because I need the points elsewhere. I might explore this in some future games. With their average BS of 3, I don't know if the extra shots will be worth it for the points.Of the varies options, I run with the single pistol duellist. I use 2 units of 9 in my 2250pts build. These 2 units screen my two 'hammer' units.

Duellists w/Buckler - give you a wimpy 6+ save vs shooting and 5+ in CC - While the 5+ in CC could give you some survivability vs your average S3 footslogger, it really isn't worth it IMO, as their primary purpose for me is to be shooting the enemy and acting as tempting bait.

Duellists w/Throwing Knives - the other missile option for these guys - with a range of 6" at S3, is it really worth it over the pistol? NO! Unless you're going this route for fluff reasons, leave the knives at home and pack on the black powder.

Duellist w/maximum equipment - This will easily bring your duellists past the 10pts/mini margin and frankly isn't worth it either. Yes, they will be a shooting and CC threat, but with their average T3 and 6+ AS while out in the open they just will not survive, despite being at -1 to hit from being skirmishers. Your points are really better spent elsewhere.

As DOW, I would say we have access to perhaps the most diverse array of troops among the various Warhammer Fantasy armies (if not always the best or flashiest troops). Its always fun beating down opponents with their power units, decked out with magic banners, and expensive characters and their various magic items. No sir, we win with skill and a few common magic items.

In my army I use what I will refer to as 'hammer' units. I'll explain my reasoning behind these choices, and possible alternatives.

Hammer unit 1 --- 20+ Leo's Leopoard CompanyHammer unit 2 - 3 Maneaters.

What do both of these units have in common?

Both are immune to psychology.

This is crucial on various levels. Both units are also very capable of beating most units that they will face.Leo's Leopard Company - now I know many will say to just use vanilla pikes, or even go for Ricco's, Alcatani, or Pirazzo's, but I have found the Leopard Company to be winners. Their cost (most expensive pike unit) can be prohibitive, but I have found them to be worth it. My first few outings with DOW were without duellists and after Leo's demolished one of my opponent's units, they began drawing heavy fire in subsequent games, leaving them to be less than effective. Be well aware, with only light armor, pikes will die in droves to handguns and xbows, to say nothing of warmachines. Hence, the duellist screen. Yes, opponents, can still target them from hills etc. I try to make sure my opponents have so many things to worry about, that if they focus too much attention on eradicating the pikes, other parts of my army can and will make them pay dearly.

Now, back to the immune to psychology ability. You will get shot at and you will lose pikemen, but you will not be running away from these losses. I also find the ability extremely valuable, as I play against WE (who uses a lot of dryads, treekin, treemen), VC (undead - duh), Ogres (more fear). I can't have an expensive block of troops failing a fear check and leaving a gap in the battle line.Pikes oddly enough work best vs infantry, light cavalry, ogres, and units of that size/toughness. Pike will struggle vs 1+ or 2+ save knights (even with the +1 str bonus). I find that the sheer number of attacks + the fact that you go first (except versus HE and magical ASF) allows you to easily wipe out the front rank if not 2 ranks of most infantry units.

I should also mention I place my paymaster in my Leopard Company unit - if the paymaster dies (likely in CC) then you will have pikes + hatred vs the unit that killed him - very nice (Borat)We also can't ignore Leo himself, a fairly generic captain, although he 'technically' gets an additional attack as he carries a pistol. Leo also carries heavy armor so he has a bit more staying power than the rank and file pikemen of the unit. I also arm my paymaster with the following wargear: pistol, heavy armor, shield, morningstar. This makes the entire pike unit able to throw out 2 pistols shots at nearby units to either boost the duellist shooting or put a few wounds on another unit. These two shots may not seem like much but anything casualty you inflict on your opponent is worth it. Most opponents also don't expect to be shot at from an infantry unit, so its just another little surprise I use. These two shots will also hit most of the time - Leo is BS5, and the paymaster comes in at a respectable BS4. Again, they can always stand and shoot as well which can take out a couple of enemies before you unleash the massive number of pike attacks in CC.

Hammer Unit 2 ---A unit of 3 maneaters. I have seen lists use units of 3 with a braces of hanguns (pistols for the maneaters) to great effect and I might build of unit of these in the near future. My unit of three contains 2 maneaters with cathayan longswords and one with a great weapon who is placed in the middle. Maneaters already come with an impressive statline and several nice abilities (immune to psych, stubborn, cause fear). I find the WS + I boost of the longswords nice because it lets these guys compete with most hero level characters in terms of speed and the extra WS ensure you should be hitting most enemy units on a 3+, and with a S5, you can expect to usually wound on a 3+, and often a 2+. The one maneater with a great weapon is there to have a S7 chariot killing machine (4 S7 attacks is nothing to scoff at). With a S7 this guy will also put fear into heavily armed cavalry with a nice -4 modifier to their armor save.

On to the actual implementation of the tactic: I deploy my duellist units as screens directly in front of my hammer units to prevent them from getting shot up as much as possible. During the first few movement phases the duellists units advance so that they are anywhere from 5-8 inches in front of the hammer units. I also try to keep the rest of the batteline roughly even with my hammer units so that flank charges on the hammers dont present themselves.What do I do with each unit?

The duellists will engage enemy units within range using their pistols, hopefully inflicting a few casualties. I will rarely charge with duellists unless I see a strategic advantage in doing so which will help me in the following turns. There is no point in wiping out an enemy unit only to get yourself out of position in their turn. If the duellists are in range to shoot then anyone but dwarfs should be able to charge them. Depending on the enemy and the opponent, you will likely get charged. If its a weak enough enemy or if my shooting phase has inflicted a decent amount of casualties, I might stand and shoot. Typically, I will choose to flee (remember - 5-8 inches away from the hammers). I typically roll fairly high, so my duellists will flee through either of my immune to psych units who will ignore the fleeing troops. Make sure you dont have any other friendlies in their path who might be affected. It will also take some careful positioning so that your duellists flee through your hammers and not in a direction which will cause other units to panic. Depending on the type of unit that charged the duellists, the enemy will either get a failed charge or carry on through to your hammer unit. I should mention I leave a tiny gap so that my hammer unit can see the enemy unit in question so that they could be a legal charge target.Preferably, I want my pike unit charged, whereas I want a unit getting a failed charge and stopping short of my maneaters who will of course charge that unit in my turn. Thus I usually leave the duellists screening the maneaters a bit further out than the ones screening my pikes.

As outlined above, the combat prowess of these units ensure they will win most fights, and hopefully the duellists will have put some wounds on the opposing enemy units. If everything works well, the duellists will rally in the subsequent turn and will again work their way forward to support the battleline. It can of course happen that you dont flee far enough with your duellists resulting in their death. If the duellists die, then they die.

The pikemen who will have their static combat resolution (paymaster helps here as well) in addition to the wounds they cause in combat will likely break most units. The maneaters undoubtedly can dish out lots of punishment which should mean that they will face few if any return attacks depending on the situation of course. As they cause fear and with a starting US9 they should auto-break a lot of opponents (in the unlikely event someone rolls insane courage). I've used this tactic quite successfully. My opponent can either charge the duellists, shoot them (which is their major weakness), or try to maneuver around them. If they are ignored, I continue to put pistol shots into whichever enemy is in range.

Keep in mind that none of this is ocurring in a vacuum - the rest of the army is there as well as the rest of your opponent's forces + the terrain. Every unit in my list works in concert with the other units of my army. I try to make sure that any of my opponent's units which I try to draw into these baits have been shot at by either my xbows, cannons, halflings, duellists, and if possible by either of my wizards. The tactic isn't going to be a guaranteed success, as anything can happen at any point in the battle. You also shouldn't limit yourself to one strategy. It takes a combination efforts in all phases of the game to be successful. There are many issues within the metagame which can help make you a more successful general, but that is for another tactica.

Some other potential candidates for hammer units:

Dwarfs - high WS, T, Ld, can always march, with many different equipment options, HW + Shield + Heavy Armor gives them great staying power. Giving them a great weapon brings you to S5 and can let you death with the many T4 baddies out there.

Marauders - High WS, high I, average Ld but frenzy - immune to psych but they need to be controlled, different equipment options means you can easily cut through low T, low armor save troops, or great weapons means you will put out a healthy number of high WS S5 attacks.

Generic pikes + other RoR pikes - all good for the various reasons outlined above, minus the immune to psych, although you will save some ptsHalfing spearmen - just kiddingOther ogres - high S and T, multipe wounds, and multipe attacks, but average leadership, stilll cause fear though, and far far cheaper than maneaters.

Cavalry - I haven't tried this yet as the major drawback to this is that you really need to get the charge off on an enemy for cavalry to be at their best and even then rubber lance syndrome can strike. You would also need to set the screens further out than normal which might result in them either getting annihilated or fleeing in the wrong direction. Still, a potential cavalry charge (Voland's potentially) against a unit that failed a charge could be devastating.

This concludes the tactica. I hope you can find something useful for your future battles.---Slick

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Terrain Madness


I picked up the jumbo Wargames Terrain Set from GW and I must say I'm impressed despite the price. Did I mention the price? $120 regular, on sale for $99, -$27 in points - $77 after discountsThe set includes 3 huge tree bases, a sect of ruins, a modular hill which can be arranged in 2 different ways or each used separately, and a large 1-piece gaming hill - all in plastic, oh, the set also includes two tubs of static grass/flock

Yep thats right, all of the terrain needs to be painted/flocked - nothing premade here...

lots and lots of sprues to assemble

note the size of the forest bases - only 3 trees each but theyll still take up a lot of board space which is nice, also bottom center is the base of the ruins - good objective for scenarios

So it turns out I'm out of black primer... was going to basecoat all the terrain last night... so I'll have to pick up a can today - should be able to basecoat everything in one night

Got everything basecoated - took about 1/2 the primer can should be able to assemble it all tonight & pics to followone thing to note - the crappy design of the small pillars for the ruins - half of em fit together perfectly, the others just do not match up, surprising since their plastics have been topnotch lately

Everything has been basecoated, all of the trees have been assembled.

Here is a pic of the large hill - painted and flocked - took about an hour

One of the tree bases fully assembled with one of the trees having the foliage attached (I'll get the other two done soon) - next step is painting & flocking the base, then the painting the trees

All of the trees are based - just need to paint the other 6 trees - going to leave the others without foliage as it breaks off far too easily

Modular Hill

As you can see there are two differnet types of static grass here. I ran out of the darker one (thanks GW for not providing enough to finish the terrain in the box) and ended up buying a lighter color. I tried blending it a little bit as I dont feel like going back and redoing that whole section.

Tree Bases

Finished all 3 tree bases for the forests. These are perhaps the best part of the whole scenery box - great looking forests with removable trees so its not a hassle moving units through them.

Pic of one stand with finished trees inserted. Can't wait to see these all on the tabletop.

Ruined Temple

Base of the temple with skull in center. Works great as its own piece or you can add any number of the other temple pieces.

A closer shot - still need to touch the skull up a little and a lil work on the stone.

Base with monolith inserted. I decided to paint the inside of the monolith dark green - I'll be painting in some runes and symbols later on as opposed to gluing in the provided skulls etc - it will make it look a little more customized I think.

Overhead of the assembled temple. As you can see it takes up quite a bit of space and looks fantastic. A great place for lone characters and skirmishers to hide :)

Side view of the temple

Closeup view of the entrance

Extreme closeup - I think painting some runes on the monolith will look great especially for someone walking in the front entrance.

Another side view

Rear view

Overhead view

Well , that concludes this terrain blog as I've completed the entire GW scenery box now. Overall, I'd rate this kit as 9/10. Everything is excellent here from the forests and hills to the ruined temple. This is a onestop way to have an entire table's worth of terrain in one set. I don't give it a perfect score because it is a really expensive set ($120) although you could easily spend that much on similar terrain. I also didn't like some of the temple pieces as they just wouldn't glue together properly so you will see some gaps here and there in the temple columns. Definitely room for improvement there GW. The other issue is the amount of static grass they provide you with. I did all 3 forests with the scorched grass and there is plenty left (probably not enough to do one of the hills. I used the glade grass (?) to do the regular hill and it got me about half of one piece of the modular hills. They should either provide more of the static grass types that are included or add a 3rd container of static grass.

Monday, March 10, 2008


Not much new here, just decided on a color scheme for the gobbo force

Might have to get one more set of Skull Pass to get the remaining gobbos I need and some of the terrain pieces I want to use

Anyone interested in splitting a box??

New Projects: Converted Empire Army

Starting a small, themed Empire army --- everything in this army will be extensively converted

converted minis
scenec bases
mini-dioramas in ranked units

Magnetising Bases & Movement Trays

Started on a project to get bases and movement trays magnetised. So far I have a cavalry movement tray and the 10x2 xbow movement tray magnetised. The next step will be to go buy some more metal sheeting and mangets as well. Having seen how much of a convenience it is to take this extra step for an army, I think its well worth investing the time to do it. It will also speed up the game itself since your troops won't be falling over if you accidentally bump the unit and removing casualties will be simple as well.

This is also a good idea for those looking to up their painting scores at tournaments as conversions factor into that score as well, and magnetising an army contributes to the overall look of it.

I would highly recommend that for horde-style armies (eg skaven, orcs/gobbos, vampire counts)

some pics coming soon

trying to get magnets but damn hobby lobby is closed or closing every time i go there , srsly who closes at 8pm on a friday? wtf

Ok, picked up some magnets at HL , $3 for 10, not a bad deal, although theyre a bit on the big side so I'm gonna have to find smaller ones for cavalry bases

anyway , here are some pics of one of my Xbow units fully magnetized :)

Gravity? pfft

Eventually I'll get around to magentizing every unit in the army - its definitely worth it, especially for those difficult to rank up units

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

More March 2008 Tournament Coverage



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